When The Sunset And Sunise Blend Together As One

Misty frost, soggy feet, numb hands, this can't be beat. I'm in love. It's so beautiful... So peaceful and free. Not a person around, alone with my thoughts and strong legs... It's just me.

I can't imagine what it will be like when it really gets cold. When it sleets so hard I won't be able to see. Right now, everything is perfect and my shadow is standing tall. 

I took a 4x4 track until I felt confident enough to go off trail. Struggle. I did this until the highway, new struggle. A beautiful lunch on a black sand beach. Only a few drops of rain.

I made it to Ásbyrgi hours ahead of schedule. Burger, beer, charge devices, fall asleep. Head resting in my greasy plate of fries. My body isn't used to the time change and there's so much I want to see. Seven more miles before I can set up tent tonight. I don't mind though, because this is where I need to be.

It didn't get dark today. I continued down or up, I'm not sure which direction. Is it morning, is it night? I left so late, there was only one other person in sight. We camped together under rainbows, above a canyon, silty raging water below. I needed this company. I was deflating from exhaustion.

Thank you, Iceland... for bringing me so much light.  

Three Directions

I've been anxiously anticipating the day when he PNT joins the PCT for some 14 glorious miles. How many times does that phrase, "your old stomping grounds," ring true? I stomp a lot, but this is where it all began, where I first became a hiker, where my life changed forever. 

It was glorious. It was beautiful. It was more than I could have ever imagined. My smile was so wide at the trail junction that it nearly reached both ears... even with a busted ankle. I can't quite express the feeling inside of me, but I'll tell you, it goes on the list of top moments in life. The views... Holy Cow, I didn't remember how epic this section was, too. World class. I saw more hikers on the PCT than on my entire hike thus far. 

Last year on my PCT SOBO hike, I thought I was a goner when I fell on a snow traverse crossing Rock Pass... It would be the third time crossing it now in 13 months. Looks like the trail crew did some amazing maintenance because I ran across the scree and pass in record time. I want to buy the trail crew a round of beers, because their work certainly made a world of difference. 

I ran into a SOBO hiker, Energizer Bunny from my home town, who was just beginning her 2,660 mile hike. We convinced another NOBO hiker, Keister, who was miles from finishing his first thru, to camp with us at Holman pass. Holman Pass... It was my first campsite ever on trail! I'm thinking about you, Julia! Three hikers walking in three directions. It was magic. I had extra food and cooked us all dinner while we stayed up late sharing stories. We all cowboy camped together under the stars and Keister shared a song he wrote on trail. I've got goosebumps remembering the night. 

This is why we hike. This is what it's all about. Worlds colliding and strangers coming together as family. We all have some wild stories, but how special to build new ones together.